The main rules and mistakes of inexperienced florists when grafting roses

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Grafting is simple, a cheap and affordable way to grow many types of roses on your site. But not everyone succeeds in propagating these whimsical flowers by cuttings: some of the shoots die. There are a number of important nuances, writes Design Homes, which beginners often forget.

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A good percentage of survival in last year's not yet fully lignified shoots. It is advisable to choose shoots formed at the base of the trunk. It is also important that the rose stalk has at least one bud (for summer grafting) or two or three buds (for autumn grafting). The lower leaves are cut, and the upper ones are shortened by half. Most flower growers prefer to carry out summer cuttings. It is important that the buds have time to set, but the rose has not yet bloomed. But some varieties take root better in autumn. Their cuttings can be planted in the soil during the winter, before the first frosts, well covered from snow and frost with agrofibre or spruce branches. Such frost-resistant varieties include some hybrids, “iceberg” and “rosalinda” rose varieties.

In order for the rose cuttings to take root better, the cuttings are treated with growth stimulants before planting in the soil. Fans of folk remedies often use aloe juice diluted with water. Excess moisture is one of the frequent mistakes made by inexperienced florists when grafting roses. If there is a lot of moisture in the soil, the roots of the shoots will quickly rot.

It is better to plant rose cuttings in a lighted place that is warmed by the sun. But direct rays are dangerous for young shoots, so they are shaded, for example, with spunbond. Another common mistake is failure to observe the temperature regime. At a temperature of 20 ° C, root growth in cuttings slows down, they may die. To protect against temperature changes, you can cover them with plastic bottles for one to one and a half months to create a kind of greenhouse. You just need to sometimes lift the “lids” for ventilation.